Philippines

I travelled the Philippines solo for three weeks, from Luzon to Panay and then Mindoro, by jeepney, ferry, tricycle and night bus.

What struck me was a disarming kindness: strangers going out of their way to help you without being asked, invitations to share a meal just for the pleasure of chatting with a foreigner.

As for food: lugaw, a comforting rice porridge, pancit, stir-fried noodles you’ll find on every table, and rice at almost every meal.

The landscapes live up to it. In northern Luzon, the rice terraces of Banaue and Batad, carved into the mountainsides over generations, and the hanging coffins of Sagada. Further south, the beaches of Boracay and islands where you can swim with turtles.

The country also has its shadows: very visible sex tourism in Angeles and some parts of Manila, and, in the most touristy areas, guides imposed even on trails that don’t really need one.

Here you’ll find the travel journal of this trip, then my guides to the Philippines as they’re published.